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Whether you are visiting the high Alpine peaks of the South-East Balkans for the first time or you consider yourself a skillful and experienced mountaineer, becomes most evident at a first glance. There is one simple way to tell, and that is not exactly the type of equipment you have furnished yourself with. Neither are your physical capabilities and endurance a primary indicator of your mountaineering prowess. What distinguishes the true mountaineer from the rookie is the way they react upon first encounter with strangers along their path. The way you greet them, and then receive their greeting in return.

 

It is really this simple: if you look them straight in the eye and welcome them with a smile and a salute, it doesn't really matter how many hours you have spent around the wind-swept peaks and cliffs around these wild corners of the world; it is a sign that you do indeed carry the magic spirit of the mountain in your heart. But if you startle and cringe inside your shell, and only mumble a muted "hello" long after you've passed by them, there might as well be some hope still. The mountain and yourself may yet be at odds at this point, but you are on the right track. If you just look through the fellow climber with unseeing eyes, gazing into the nothingness, and pass them without a moan... well, I do hope chance would toss you into the Pirin mountain at some point, and you would take one of the myriad of routes to the Koncheto summit eventually. For I've yet to come upon a person who has seen the world from atop this fabled needle of stone, and has not yet realised how fragile and humble before mother nature we humans really are. Indeed, spots like these do tend to change people forever.

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As one of the plenty of mountaineer stories goes, Koncheto is called that way (Bulgarian word for 'the Little Horse') because long before the safety wires were spread along its sharp ridges back in the 60s, the tourists would often sit upon it and traverse the toughest part of that walk by prostrating themselves forward and crawling on all fours - just like that famed circumnavigation of the sacred Mount Kailash in Tibet, which the locals call "parikrama". In a way, a visit to the Pirin mountain in South-West Bulgaria is like a pilgrimage. If anything, it is an ultimate test to the senses, the power of the human will, and the physical capabilities.

Mind you, Koncheto is not even the highest peak in Pirin - it is 2800 m high, which is 114 metres below Vihren, the topmost point there (which, in turn, is 11 metres below Musala, the highest summit in the Balkans, located a few dozen km north in the neighbouring Rila mountain). But Koncheto has become a natural focal point of all routes crisscrossing Pirin, this most extreme of mountains in this part of the world. Whichever path you take from any of the small towns and villages surrounding the mountain, chances are you'd end up at this ridge eventually. But beware: you would need very good equipment, lots of good food and fresh water, and of course, a pair of strong legs. The altitude you'd have to overcome is immense, but you shouldn't give up at any point. Just distribute your rations smartly, because you wouldn't be able to replenish the latter before reaching the Suhodol lake, which is located very high in the heart of Pirin. And the most important part: surround yourself with good friends who share your passion for the mountain, and are prepared to lend you a hand in trouble.

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Here are some tips along the way. The higher you advance, the narrower the path to Koncheto becomes. Do not try to walk shoulder to shoulder with your companions. Here the only way is one in line. If you decide to take photos of the majestic scenery, or just take the occasional deep breath and have a broad look around, better stop in one place. The moment you look aside while still walking, chances are you'd end up with terrible dizziness, and if luck is not on your side and the day is foggy, it may occur to you that the clouds are trying to assault you from all sides. However, do not take too long breaks, especially while eventually sitting on the back of the Little Horse. Just walk on. And, once you have grabbed the iron rope that serves as parapet along the ridge, hold it tight. The winds could be really fierce up there. Do not panic, the trek to the top shouldn't take too long from the base camp.

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At long last, you have now found yourself on the summit. Now take a deep breath, and allow the fresh oxygen to pinch the inside of your lungs. How do you feel now? Tiny? Colossal? A winner? As far as the gaze can reach, there is only sky, peaks, white pyramids of pebbles and gravel, and below, an immeasurable sea of green grass and pine forests. It often happens that one side of Koncheto is baked in the scorching sun, while the other is drowning in a foggy maze. It is probably because this is the exact place where all blizzards and all other types of weather have their regular meeting, before each takes on its own path across the world beneath.

Needless to say, the most spectacular option, especially if the weather permits, is for you and your group of enthusiasts to cross the entire "saddle" of the horse. Just hold a firm grip on that iron parapet, do not look down into the abyss, and watch your steps: the ridge could narrow down to just 40 cm in the toughest places. It would often happen that another group is coming against you - do not panic, there is always a broader spot that you could use to pass each other. On the upside, that sort of closeness provides ample opportunity to get to know your fellow mountaineers better, shake hands with each of them as you help each other along the way. Safety and courtesy, all in just one gesture - what could be a better way to socialise?

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If you have made the wise choice of visiting the Pirin mountain in late July or early August and you happen to have brought a good sleeping bag and a warm coat along, you could spend a night at the small hut just next to the summit. It comfortably hosts about a dozen persons, although, granted, electricity and tap water are luxuries you shouldn't be expecting from such a place. Yet, despite all the hardships, greeting the rising sun early next morning from the roof of the Pirin is an experience that is strongly recommended to backpackers seeking the romantic side of the mountain. It is guaranteed that this moment will remain in your memory until your last day!

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Conversely, if you prefer the warmer and relatively comfy bed in the mountain hostel, using the small hut on the ridge for a short breakfast stop is still an option - the trek back into civilisation is a long one, after all. Just choose a large rock to use as a sofa, and lean back for a panoramic view. Open your eyes and ears, and let the majestic tranquility of this place chase all your fears, fatigue and troubles away. Here you would feel the closest to God.

For those more adventurously inclined, pay attention that before reaching the hostel, you would clearly see a sinister giant of rock protruding into the nothingness - it sprawls on the right-hand side of the path down from the peak, and runs perpendicularly to Koncheto. A much narrower ridge, without safety parapets, this part of the mountain is called Koteshki Chal (Cat's Cap). But do not let the looks shock you: the route is passable even without specialised climbing equipment, although you would certainly need to be extremely careful. The views from the edge are worth all the effort.

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One thing is for sure after this ordeal. Once you are back into the world, you would be changed forever. Cleansed, pacified, different. You may not notice it right away, and it may sound a bit pretentious and extravagant as I'm saying it now. It makes no difference. What matters is, you would have conquered Koncheto, the most inaccessible, yet most charming and spiritual place in the Pirin mountain. And you will be at peace with yourself.

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Useful information

In order to reach Koncheto, the best starting point is the Vihren mountain hut, which is located some 12 km from the Bansko ski resort, using a good asphalted road. You could climb the Vihren summit on the way, which is Pirin's highest peak (2914 m), or go around it at first, leaving it for dessert. Make sure you have allowed at least 3 hours for the trek from Vihren to Koncheto, or 4 if you plan to make more frequent stops. The route is marked with red colour along the way - just follow the signs leading to the Yavorov hut, if you are to reach Koncheto without taking the steep climb to Vihren.

Possible schedule

Day 1.
Arrive at the Sofia airport. Take Sofia metro to the Central Railway station of Sofia. -- 1 hour
Take Sofia train to Septemvri. -- 2 hours
Take the narrow-gauge line from Septemvri to Bansko. -- 5 hours
Take the asphalted road from Bansko to the Vihren hut. At the Varbovets water fountain, the road becomes a mountain path. -- 4 hours

Day 2.
Trek from the Vihren hut to Koncheto, possibly passing through the Kutelo and Vihren peaks on the way. The route starts with a climb to the Suhodol lake, then climbs steeply to the Koncheto hut. -- 5 hours
Traverse the Koncheto ridge, and get back to the Vihren hut. -- 6 hours

Day 3.
Go back to Bansko, possibly following the Banderitsa riverbed. -- 5 hours
Take the bus from Bansko back to Sofia. -- 3 hours

Necessary equipment

Backpack (40-50 litres)
Comfortable and strong tourist shoes, preferably tightly engulfing the ankles
Waterproof raincoat
Warm sweater and t-shirts (polar)
Wind-proof anorak
Spare socks and underwear
Walking-sticks

Fees along the way

Sofia metro ticket - 1.60 lev
Sofia - Septemvri - Bansko train ticket - 11.30 lev
Vihren hut bed day one - 12 lev
Vihren hut bed day two - 12 lev
Bansko to Sofia bus ticket - 13 lev
Sofia city bus ticket - 1.60 lev

Necessary documents

ID
Mountain insurance

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